紡織相關(guān)外文翻譯--編織類型和緯紗密度對(duì)精紡毛織物起毛起球的影響（英文）

1、Lohrasbi F., Ghahi J.l M., Yazdanshenas M. E.; Influence of Weave Type and Weft Density on Worsted Fabric Pilling.FIBRES or one may conclude that, in some cases, less pilling forms on the surface when the warp outnumbe

2、rs the weft (i.e. less engagement between warp and weft), provided that the density of the warp is far larger than that of the weft. But in some fabrics, increasing the weft density will form fewer pills on the surfac

3、e fabric.Key words: worsted fabrics, weave type, weft density, pilling.1. The establishment of a localised area of high fuzz density, 2. The development of a loose entangle- ment within that area, 3. The tightening of

4、 the entanglement into a roughly spherical mass of fibre, 4. The pulling out of the anchor fibres to form a discrete, mobile pill, 5. The fracture of certain fibre due to the relocation of a pill, 6. The fracture of

5、 remaining fibre and the loss of the pill [6].Micro-pill development is covered by the first three steps, which means the first en- tanglement zone. The development of fuzz into a pill is shown in Figure 1.Gintis and

6、Mead showed that the in- creased strength and flex life of synthetic fibres reduces the rate of pill wear-off, resulting in higher pill densities and a greatly increased pill life. In addition, the tenacity and rigid

7、ity of the fibres affect the fuzz-development phase 2 - 6 and subsequent fuzz entanglement in such a way that fibres with a relatively high te-n IntroductionPilling is an important problem not only for textile and cl

8、othes manufacturers but also for users. The effect of the pilling process results in a significant decrease in fabric quality and a negative influence on user comfort [1]. Sirospun yarns are quite sufficient and com

9、parable to two-plied yarns in many of the performance characteristics of wo- ven worsted fabrics when optimum con- ditions are provided in their production process. Such fabrics resist the formation of pilling and abr

10、asion at nearly the same level, and have a similar appearance [2].Apart from the high variety of garment designs, durability is also an important factor. Therefore certain specifications like pilling, which affects d

11、urability, is one of the critical problems in the gar- ment industry.Pilling is a fabric defect which is ob- served as small fibre balls or groups con- sisting of intervened fibres that have been attached to the fabric

12、 surface by one or more fibres [3].Pilling often represents a serious defect in a fabric or garment. Not only does it detract from the appearance and handle of the product, but it also has an acceler- ating effect on

13、 the rate of fibre removal from the yarn structure, hence materially reducing the service life [4].Through the pill formation process, fibre entanglement makes some deformities on the fabric surface [5].Pill initiati

14、on and development follow a well-established pattern with six stages:Figure 1. Steps in pill formation [5]; 1) fuzz, 2) loose entanglement, 3) pill (tight entanglement), 4) spiral entanglement.4)1) 2)FIBRES & TEXT

15、ILES in Eastern Europe 2011, Vol. 19, No. 5 (88) 66weave types and weft densities, supplied by the Iran Merinos and Motahhari Com- panies. Detailed specifications of the samples are listed in Table 1. It must be not

16、ed that the fibre processes and spin- ning systems are exactly the same.Each sample was processed with 4 dif- ferent weft densities, apart from sam- ple no. 6, which had five different weft densities. The size of the sa

17、mples was 90 × 150 cm. We prepared 3 pieces of each sample, the back and front, and the warp and weft directions were marked.To ensure the randomness of the tests, we chose samples from different places of the

18、fabric surface. It must be noted that in the Martindale test, two pieces of the samples must be in full contact with each other.Tests were performed in standard condi- tions (65% RH and 20 °C). In the pill- ing t

19、est, one piece of the sample had to be set on the lower head of the machine Table 4. Technical data for wool fibre of a 38.4/2 tex and 25/2 tex yarn count.Test type Test result38.4/2 tex 25/2 texFibre fineness, µm

20、22 19Weight of sliver, g/m - 20.64Mean length, mm 70 63Table 5. Technical data for polyester tops of a 38.4/2 tex and 25/2 tex yarn count.Test type Test result38.4/2 tex 25/2 texFibre fineness, µm 2.4 2.4Mean length

21、, mm 91 91Table 6. Technical data for yarn twist and Twist direction.Warp and weft count, tex t.p.m (two-ply) twist direction (two-ply) t.p.m (one- ply) twist direction (two-ply)50/2 575 S 662 Z38.4/2 636 S 732 Z25/2 8

22、21 S 944 ZTable 2. Technical data for wool fibre of 50/2 tex yarn count.Test type Test resultFibre fineness, µm 23.3Weight of sliver, g/m 18.67Mean length, mm 57Table 3. Technical data for polyester tops of 50/2(t

23、ex) yarn count.Test type Test resultFibre fineness, dtex 3Mean length, mm 66.6i.e. on the felt, and the smaller piece had to be adjusted to the moving head of the machine.The test cycles were set at 125, 500, 750, 100

24、0, 1500 and 2000 according to ISO 12945-2000. After each test run, the number of pills was counted horizontally by a magnifier under a fluorescent light. It must be noted that the light should be set at an angle of

25、5 to 15 degrees to the fabric surface, and also the distance be- tween the samples and the eye must be between 30 to 50 cm. The mean value of the number of pills of each sample was recorded [8]. Raw Material Specific

26、ations The specifications of wool fibres proc- essed to a 50/2 (tex) yarn count by the Iran Merinos company are listed in Ta- ble 2. Technical data of the polyester fi- bre are also given in Table 3.Technical data of fi

27、bre processed to a 38.4/2 tex and 25/2 tex yarn count by the Motahhari company can also be seen in Tables 4, 5 and 6.n Results and discussionThe yarn twist quantity could affect the pilling properties of fabrics. An

28、increase in the twist factor results in a decrease in fibre migration, fuzz generation and pill- ing. We used the same t.p.m. and twist direction for the weft and warp yarn sam- ples to eliminate the effect of the twi

29、st parameter on the pilling fabrics.Worsted fabric with 50/2 tex warp and weftAs regards sample 1, (weave: twill 1/2 Left to Right) from Figure 5.a it is ob- vious that when the weft density is in- creased first from

30、15 to 16 and then to 18.5, the number of pills decreases from 69 to 60. This approach is continued by increasing the weft density.Moreover, Figure 5.b illustrates that by increasing the weft density of the fabric (x

31、), the number of pills (y) de- crease according to the linear equation y = 108.415 – 2.641x and correlation co- efficient - 0.699.According to Table 7, the significance level of the examination is less than 5%, and it

32、is concluded that there is a real re- lation between pilling and the weft den- sity of fabric.As regards sample 2 (weave: Twill 2/1 Left to Right), in Figure 6.a we can see that the number of pills decreases from 65 t

33、o 51 when the weft density is increased first from 15 to 16 and then to 18.5.Moreover, in Figure 6.b it is illustrated that by increasing the weft density of the fabric (x), the number of pills (y) de- creases accordi

34、ng to the linear equation y = 123.245 – 3.805x and correlation co- efficient - 0.758.According to Table 8, the significance level of the examination is less than 5%, and it is concluded that there is a real re- lation

35、between pilling and the weft den- sity of fabric. The computed sig from the T test in Ta- ble 9 is about 0.05, which means samples 1 and 2 are obviously different in their responses to the test. The mean value of pill

36、s in sample 2 is lower compared to sample 1.Samples 1 and 2 have nearly the same weave construction as well as the same twist per meter and twist direction: sam- ple 1 - twill 1/2 left to right and sample 2 - twill 2

37、/1 left to right). However, there is more warp yarn on the fabric surface in sample 2, and the density of the warp is far more than that of the weft, hence fibres cannot easily come out from the fabric surface to fo