（節(jié)選）外文翻譯--可持續(xù)生產(chǎn)中紡織品和服裝消費的新興設(shè)計策略（英文）

1、Emerging design strategies in sustainable production and consumption of textiles and clothingKirsi Niinimäki a,*, Lotta Hassi ba Aalto University School of Art and Design, Design Department, Design Research, PO BOX

2、31000, FI-00076 Aalto, Finland b Aalto University School of Science and Technology, Finlanda r t i c l e i n f oArticle history:Received 29 June 2010Received in revised form27 April 2011Accepted 29 April 2011Available on

3、line 7 May 2011Keywords:Textile industrySustainable design strategiesValue creationStrategic innovationa b s t r a c tThis study contributes to current knowledge of sustainability in textile and clothing production andco

4、nsumption. When the textile and clothing industry aims to promote sustainability, the main changefactors have been linked to eco-materials and ethical issues in production. At present, however, businessmodels are mainly

5、linked with a large volume of sales and production. Although industrial developmenthas moved toward smaller environmental impact, production as well as consumption has increased tolevels where the benefits of technologic

6、al development are reduced. A change is thus needed to reacha systemic transformation, not only in production but also in consumption. The aim of this paper is toopen up the discussion on opportunities for radical change

7、 in this industry. The paper presents ways torethink and redesign business in the textile and clothing field by offering an overview on several designstrategies that exist today in niche markets. Furthermore we evaluate

8、how interested consumers are inthese design strategies and discuss the opportunities these design approaches offer to sustainabledevelopment through new value creation.? 2011 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.1. Introduc

9、tionUntil recently, development in the textile and clothing industry has focused on technological and cost aspects. Emphasis has been placed on keeping the price of the final product low and increasing efficiency in prod

10、uction. Designers, manufacturers and retailers have paid less attention to other dimensions of the offering, e.g. ownership and related business models, as well as consumer wishes and values. Hence, the products are desi

11、gned and produced according to regularly changing trends that enable quick profit, rather than radically rethinking the ways of designing and manufacturing the offering that is based on consumer needs and sustainability.

12、 Thus the question to be addressed is how textile and clothing offerings should be designed and manufactured to better suit consumer preference in a more sustainable way. At present, the business models are linked to the

13、 volume of sales and production alone. Therefore, more sustainable consumption is seen merely as leading to reduced volumes and decreasing profitability in production, not as an opportunity for a new kind of green busine

14、ss (Allwood et al., 2008). A radical new mindset among designers, manufacturers and consumers is needed in order to find moresustainable ways to fulfill consumer needs and to attain sustainable improvements in the relati

15、onship between production and consumption. As Perrels (2008) points out, to a large extent the issue in sustainable development is change, not only in production systems but also in consumption patterns. As Kemp (2008) r

16、eports, a fundamental change is needed to reach a systemic change, but transition faces resistance and it takes time to emerge. Strategic innovations are needed to create a fundamentally different way of doing business.

17、Strategic inno- vation questions who the customer is, what products or services should be offered, and how to offer those products and services (Markides, 1997). In other words, it is not merely about rethinking the fund

18、amentals on the supply side, but also about redesigning the business on the demand side, e.g. in the form of the user experience and rethinking value creation. Thispaperopensupthediscussionontheradicalnewmindsetand chang

19、e needed in textile and clothing design, manufacturing, busi- ness and consumption. The paper presents design strategies that can lead development to a more sustainable path. The paper combines empiricalresearchdatawitha

20、 theoreticalbackgrounddiscussion.The paper begins with an overview on the structural change inside this industry, provides a description of planned obsolescence in a throw- away society, and then further discusses the po

21、ssibilities for radical change. Section 7 extends the discussion toward the need for a new mindset and change in the pattern of designing and manufacturing* Corresponding author. Tel.: þ358 405539414.E-mail addresse

22、s: kirsiniin@gmail.com, kirsi.niinimaki@aalto.fi (K. Niinimäki).Contents lists available at ScienceDirectJournal of Cleaner Productionjournal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/jclepro0959-6526/$ e see front matter ?

23、 2011 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.doi:10.1016/j.jclepro.2011.04.020Journal of Cleaner Production 19 (2011) 1876e1883textile manufacturing has moved to lower-cost countries, the quality of garments has also declined

24、; hence, the lifetime of garments has shortened. It is not only important how much consumers buy, but also what kinds of products they buy and how they use and dispose of them. Garments are affordable and easy to buy, up

25、 to a point where repairing the garments is no longer worthwhile. Consumers possess increasing amounts of short- lifetime garments, which have been bought without deep consid- eration and used only a few times before bei

26、ng disposed of. The clothing industry is based on extremely fast cycles of fashion and consumers’ unsustainable desires; hence it is a good example of the planned obsolescence existing in the current industrial system. A

27、ccordingly, low quality, short-term use, frequent clothing replace- ment and increasing textile waste cause an environmental burden. In Britain clothing and textile waste is estimated to be the fastest growing waste stre

28、am between the years 2005e2010, currently amounting to 1.5e2 million tonnes annually (Defra, 2008). In land- fills this waste causes methane emissions to air and pollution to groundwater through toxic chemicals (Fletcher

29、, 2008). The increase in textile waste is a consequence of the increase in textile and clothing consumption, which saw a growth rate of thirty per cent in 1995e2005 in Britain (Defra, 2008). “Fast fashion” with low quali

30、ty accounts for 20% of the market, and moreover it doubled its growth between the years 1999e2006 (ibid.). In Finland Nurmela (2009) estimated that the consumption of clothing and footwear will increase by 23% from 2006

31、to 2010. An increasing amount of textile and clothing waste has led to the development of using the textile waste, i.e. reuse and recycling e which is sometimes called the eco-efficiency approach. These approaches have f

32、aced the critique that they do not face the real sustainability problems: the increasing consumption, the growing waste problem, the environmental impact of increased textile production and the social sustainability prob

33、lems of the textile and clothing industry. Fletcher (2008) points out one reason why recycling is currently so popular: it demands only a small change from producers and consumers, and this approach allows consumers to c

34、ontinue with their unsustainable consumption patterns. The recycling approach fits in current routines and how things are done today.5. Change is neededThe present system in the textile and clothing industry is based on

35、fast cycles of fashion trends that aim to continuously produce new consumer needs and products. Product life cycles are short- ening, and companies want to substitute their products at an increasing pace. A study by Proc

36、ter and Gamble shows how the life cycle of consumer products dropped by 50% between 1992 and 2002 (cited by Vaitheeswaran, 2007). While the supply side of the textile and clothing industry focuses on achieving low prices

37、 and effective manufacturing, other opportunities for new value creation through sustainability have not been mapped. Sustainable innovation has traditionally been driven by the supply side. Sustainable inventions often

38、remain as inventions instead of becoming innovations, merely due to the lack of accep- tance on the demand side which, in turn, results from the lack of demand side consideration in the innovation process. Berchicci and

39、Bodewes (2005) have highlighted that successful green products must not only address the environmental attributes, but they must also fulfill market requirements accordingly with their non-green counterparts. They furthe

40、r suggest that consumers’ environ- mental concerns should be translated more deeply into the product design.Gardner and Prugh (2008, 15) believe that innovations “fueling sustainable economics are spawning the sixth majo

41、r wave ofindustrial innovation since the start of the Industrial Revolution”. The sixth wave not only emphasizes technological innovation but takes advantage of social issues and offers a leadership role also for the con

42、sumers (ibid.). Several companies acknowledge that market competition is driven by products’ meanings: “why” people need a product rather than “what” they need in a product. People use things for profound emotional, psyc

43、hological, and socio-cultural reasons as well as utilitarian ones. (Verganti, 2009) A rethinking of fundamentals has to take place within the company, and the focus should be on the outcome the user wants to accomplish w

44、ith the offering. The key is then to design the most sustainable way of producing that outcome for the user. Outcome- driven thinking places the focus on the job the user wants to get done (Christensen et al., 2007) and

45、not on the solutions of how to produce or deliver the offering. The “job” can be functional, social or emotional. When searching for opportunities that do not pertain to the existing ways of operating, an outcome-driven

46、approach is a viable strategy. Eco-materials, ethical production, and eco-efficiency have been popular themes in the textile industry in recent years. Moreover, at the beginning of the 21st century several designers have

47、 made use of the concept of reuse and redesign in designing trendy products. However, a new sustainable mindset is still waiting to emerge at large, as we continue to design andmanufacture textiles and clothing mainly in

48、 traditional ways. As Fletcher (2008, 121) describes the current situation, “.it uses yesterday’s thinking to cope with the conditions of tomorrow”.Tischner and Charter (2001) identify four approaches to the development

49、of sustainable design: repair, refine, redesign and rethink. They see the current emphasis being on “.repair modifi- cations to existing products, with some movement towards increasing the eco-efficiency of existing prod

50、ucts e the refine approach” (127). Currently changes to existing products are mainly made at the operational level, but new solutions should also offer value through sustainabilityand reduce the environmental impact of p

51、roducts and consumption in total. Hence, Tischner and Charter propose (2001) that the next shift will be towards the redesign approach, especially in the use of new technologies and materials to reduce the environmental

52、impact of products. The next stage, rethink, requires a radical change in mindset, and it can offer breakthroughs for new lifestyles, the ways of living and doing things, as well as approaches to fulfill consumer needs i

53、n a more sustainable manner (ibid.). This approach needs strategic innovations that lead to new business models. As Tukker et al. (2008) argue these new practices often stay in niches for a long period until a window of

54、opportunity opens and their breakthrough is possible. In Section 7 we present several design and manufacturing strat- egies that offer a new approach to sustainability but which today still operate as niche practices. Fi

55、rst, however, we present consumers’ environmental worries in the context of textiles and clothing.6. Consumers’ environmental worriesIn this section the results from the questionnaires are presented. The focus is on envi

56、ronmental concerns of consumers in the textile and clothing field. When asked if environmental impact as well as ethical manufacturing and safety issues affect their purchasing decisions, in Questionnaire A 21% of men an

57、d 40% of women said that these aspects often affected their textile and clothing purchasing decisions. However 74% of men and 87% of women said they were interested in ethical consumption as well as the envi- ronmental i

58、mpact of products in general (Questionnaire A). Table 2 presents the results from questionnaire A regarding what consumers considered important aspects in textile and clothing. From these responses we can conclude that y