紡織專(zhuān)業(yè)外文翻譯

1、<p><b>　　英文文獻(xiàn)</b></p><p>　　Precision knitwear</p><p>　　Dipl.lng.A Jurenak of Steiger gives an overview of the Swiss company’s latest technical developments which are pushing bac

2、k the frontiers of knitwear production.</p><p>　　At the last ITMA exhibition in Paris, Steiger had on show a new four-head multi-compact flat knitting machine. That was presented to the knitting industry as

3、offering a completely new development. The machine was the first multi-head model on the world market with features that gave increased reliability, enhanced productivity and made operation much more user-friendly.</p

4、><p>　　Separation of the front bed and back bed cam carriage by eliminating the usual cam carriage bow is amongst the most important new features of the machine. However, both cam carriage sections are driven i

5、n full synchronization. By eliminating the traditional bow of the cam carriage, which has been an inconvenient feature on more conventional machines, it is now possible to ensure a direct passage of the yarn above to the

6、 needles in the needle beds.</p><p>　　Another new development is the fact, that the yarn carriers have no direct mechanical connection with the cam plates, each carrier being driven individually by its own m

7、otor. During knitting, as the two carriage-sections reciprocate across the carriage sections in a synchronized arrangement. The yarn carriers are controlled by special software and can be moved as required either in the

8、direction of the cam carriage travel or in the opposite direction.</p><p>　　These new automatic features mean that there is no need to consider programming the yarn carriers and the yarn feed when the machin

9、e operates with variable cam carriage traverses and that the best possible operating conditions will always result. This gives a substantial rise in productivity and an improved overall machine ratio.</p><p>

10、;　　The motorization of the yarn carriers gives them their own individuality and makes it possible to adapt their movements in the highest degree to any given knitting process. The yarn carriers are automatically engaged

11、or disengaged as required by the knitting programmer and adapt to the fabric selvedges with maximum precision. This also has particular relevance to the formation of fabric selvedges since the active yarn feeders are aut

12、omatically nearest to the knitted panel, thus avoiding the form</p><p>　　The knitting of intarsia patterns is carried out without the use of swing yarn carriers, since it is possible to re-align the yarn car

13、riers away from a particular area even between the can systems. Since the arrival of the machine on the world market, steiger reports that the “multi” has shown itself as a highly productive automatic flat knitting machi

14、ne, which in addition to everything else has a multiplicity of patterning facilities which have not previously been available-at least to the same</p><p>　　Following the success of the steiger “multi” it was

15、 quickly realized that not every knitting company needs the large production of which this machine is capable. This prompted the steiger company during 2001, to bring on the market a compact version of the “multi” with a

16、 single knitting head, namely the Aries 3.</p><p><b>　　Aries 3</b></p><p>　　Three-system machine </p><p>　　Aries 3 uses the same technology as theses a three-system “mul

17、ti” but instead of a twin-cam system carriage uses a three-system cam carriage. The 106cm long needle beds from the “multi” have been replaced by needle beds 130cm long. The Aries 3 model is thus particularly suitable fo

18、r knitting small lots of exclusive high fashion knitwear.</p><p>　　The steiger Aries 6 has been in full production since the beginning of this year. The machine is a double compact version of the Aries 3 mac

19、hine, that is to say, a machine where, in a way, two Aries 3 models are linked together, although drive, share the yarn carriers and the electronic control.</p><p>　　The machine frame is a self-supporting we

20、lded structure, produced in the tried and tested steiger tradition and very stable. The total length of the machine is 535cm and there are two separate knitting heads. Each of the two separate knitting heads. each of the

21、 two heads has a knitting width of 130cm and each has a three system cam carriage. Like the “multi” and the Aries 3, the Aries 6 has no conventional carriage bow so that front and rear cam plates are separate but are dri

22、ven in synchronizat</p><p>　　Each of the knitting systems in the three system cam carriage is of identical design, each having two selection points and able to knit in the three way technique, I.e. knitting,

23、 tucking and non-knitting. When the stitch transfer unit is activated, loops can be transferred from the front bed needles to the back bed needles or vice versa either simultaneously or not. Without needing a re-alignmen

24、t of the cam races the split-stitch technique can be used at any time in order to avoid a stitch trans</p><p>　　Aries 6 capability</p><p>　　The Aries 6 machine has a standard equipment of either

25、 12 or 24 motorized yarn carriers for each knitting head so that even very demanding high fashion and exclusive intarsia designs-either as single or double-face fabrics can be knitted or combined with structure patterns.

26、</p><p>　　The Aries 6 (like the Aries 3) has pneumatic yarn trapper and cutter units as standard components on the left and right-hand side of the needle beds. The well known steiger friction fabric take-dow

27、n is positioned close to the knitting area of the machine (about 20mm), which ensures a straight and torsion-free fabric take-down.</p><p>　　The new technologies, which steiger originally developed for the “

28、multi” machine for the first time, are also included in the design of the Aries 3 and are original and further developed in the Aries 6 model having attracted many compliments by industry technical experts. It shows with

29、out doubt, that these developments were following a path in the right direction. this made it possible, by way of simple solutions, to obtain greater reliability, higher production and exclusiveness in the pattern</p

30、><p>　　However, in modern fully electronic flat machines, simplicity, productivity and machine reliability is not the only feature that counts. Software for controlling the machine and pattern preparation equip

31、ment are of equal importance.</p><p>　　Software for knitting</p><p>　　Since introducing the Vesta range of machines to the market in 1993, steiger also introduced simultaneously a pioneering pro

32、gramming system, which runs on a compatible PC computer. The system known as “model” software works with symbols, where a symbol can represent either a simple stitch or a complicated knitting process(such as a face loop

33、which has been transferred to the back bed and then returned to the front bed but on a neighboring needle).</p><p>　　Thus it is possible to use symbols for a wide range of stitch combinations and store them

34、in a library of stitch and patterns. The “model” software already contains a comprehensive library of a wide rang of pattern combinations which is continuously enlarged. By combining different symbols it is possible to p

35、roduce a part repeat and after this a full pattern repeat. The presently popular pattern repeats too are also included already in the library and the rang can be extended in accordance with </p><p>　　What is

36、 portrayed on screen is reproduced identically on the knitting machine. A rang of warning systems is available for the production process. This one is controlled by the computer, which shows up faults likely to occur dur

37、ing knitting. It is also possible to simulate stitches on a course for course basis thus making it possible to visualize the path of the yarn and the formation of loops and to analyze and understand in advance knitting o

38、n the machine.</p><p>　　After the part to be knitted has been worked out on screen and is controlled by the computer, the type of machine used for the knitting process and the gauge are determined. This is f

39、ollowed by an automatic production of the design programmer. The software “model” allows the analysis of knitted parts and their shape for various automatic steiger knitting machines, even retrospectively for the Electra

40、 generation of machine, for the range of Vesta machines and of course for the state-of-the-art Ar</p><p>　　Designer partnerships</p><p>　　For many years steiger has been working in close co-oper

41、ation with the Prima Company. Together they have produced creative designer software which today is being distributed worldwide by Lectra. The prima vision software ,based upon the visually realistic pattern repeats ” kn

42、it Expert ” by Prima Vision, can now produce knitted fabrics in jacquard patterns based on fabrics structure and intarsia patterns. The article thus created can printed out as close to reality as possible since loop stru

43、ctur</p><p>　　Design stitch by stitch in actual gauge on a grid or in stitch effect. Sketched and scanned designs can easily be converted to stitches.</p><p>　　Instant view of a knit design in a

44、nother gauge or tension; tension changes are accurately represented on the design.</p><p>　　Benefit from Knit Expert’s easy-to-use coloring features include creation of the whole color rang as knit visuals f

45、or the presentation to the customer. The professional color accuracy of primavision applies as well as automatic yarn color percentage to help with quick costing estimates.</p><p>　　Stitches from the knit st

46、ructure library based on real knitted fabric can be chosen to start building one’s own knit design library. Using Knit Expert , technical feasibility is immediately verified on the screen; what works well on PrimaVision

47、will work well on steiger knitting machines .</p><p>　　An all-visual filling system allows easy organization & retrieval of designs.</p><p>　　Generated graph prints automatically and instant

48、ly.</p><p>　　Create knit design in stitches that can be draped onto a photographic image using PrimaVision-TCX 3D-like draping features to produce sample-free sales catalogues.</p><p>　　Close co

49、-operation between steiger and Lectra has made it possible to develop both software types ”model” and “Knit-Expert” on a parallel basis which allows full compatibility. This ensures the creation and production of knitwea

50、r on Steiger automatic knitting machines, starting with planning, drafting and design right up to sales.</p><p><b>　　中文翻譯</b></p><p>　　在上次巴黎的國(guó)際紡機(jī)展覽會(huì)上，斯坦格就曾展示了一臺(tái)新型4頭多機(jī)頭緊湊型橫機(jī)。這為針織行業(yè)提供了

51、一個(gè)全新的發(fā)展成果。在世界市場(chǎng)上，這臺(tái)機(jī)器是第一臺(tái)多頭橫機(jī)，而且在功能上，增加了可靠性，提高了生產(chǎn)效率，在實(shí)際生產(chǎn)中更方便用戶(hù)使用。</p><p>　　這種機(jī)器最重要的新的功能是：分離的前后針床機(jī)頭取消了傳統(tǒng)機(jī)頭的弓形橋臂。然而，這兩個(gè)分離的前后針床機(jī)頭的驅(qū)動(dòng)是完全同步的。通過(guò)消除傳統(tǒng)的機(jī)頭橋臂，可以確保直接從針床上方墊紗。</p><p>　　另一項(xiàng)新發(fā)展也已經(jīng)成功，即導(dǎo)紗器已經(jīng)不直接

52、與機(jī)頭接觸，每一個(gè)導(dǎo)紗器有自己專(zhuān)門(mén)的驅(qū)動(dòng)機(jī)構(gòu)。在編織過(guò)程中，隨著兩部分機(jī)頭在針床上運(yùn)行，導(dǎo)紗器與其同步運(yùn)動(dòng)，這些導(dǎo)紗器被專(zhuān)門(mén)的軟件系統(tǒng)控制，根據(jù)要求，或與機(jī)頭同向移動(dòng)，或與其反向移動(dòng)。</p><p>　　這些新的自動(dòng)功能就意味著在變化機(jī)頭動(dòng)程時(shí)，已經(jīng)不必再考慮導(dǎo)紗器和喂紗的程序，而且有可能采用最好的運(yùn)行條件和環(huán)境。這樣可以提高生產(chǎn)效率，而且能夠增加機(jī)器的穩(wěn)定性。</p><p>　　導(dǎo)紗

53、器的驅(qū)動(dòng)裝置使他們擁有了主動(dòng)性和可適應(yīng)性，可以在特定的編織過(guò)程中高速運(yùn)動(dòng)。這些導(dǎo)紗器能夠根據(jù)編織程序的要求自動(dòng)的組合或分離，以滿(mǎn)足織物邊緣的最大精度要求。這也與織物邊緣的形成有特殊的相關(guān)性，因?yàn)樽詣?dòng)化的導(dǎo)紗器以最近的狀態(tài)接近編織區(qū)域,這樣能夠避免在織物的邊緣線(xiàn)圈的散亂問(wèn)題。</p><p>　　由于導(dǎo)紗器可以離開(kāi)位于三角系統(tǒng)間的特定區(qū)域，就可以不必使用可以搖擺的嵌花導(dǎo)紗器進(jìn)行嵌花花型的編織。自從這種機(jī)器在世界市場(chǎng)

54、上問(wèn)世以后，斯坦格就已經(jīng)表明“多功能Multi”作為一種高生產(chǎn)率的自動(dòng)化的電腦橫機(jī)出現(xiàn)了。除其他優(yōu)點(diǎn)外，至少在某種程度上，花樣的多樣性是以前的機(jī)器所沒(méi)有的，尤其是在編織嵌花花型時(shí)。這里，斯坦格提供24個(gè)由各自驅(qū)動(dòng)器獨(dú)立驅(qū)動(dòng)的導(dǎo)紗器。</p><p>　　隨著斯坦格“Multi”的成功，公司意識(shí)到，不是每一家針織公司都需要這種產(chǎn)量高的機(jī)器。所以，在2001年，根據(jù)市場(chǎng)的需求，斯坦格開(kāi)發(fā)了單頭的緊湊型機(jī)器，命名為“A

55、ries 3”。</p><p>　　Aries 3，三系統(tǒng)機(jī)器</p><p>　　Aries 3使用的技術(shù)與“Multi”相同，只是三系統(tǒng)三角機(jī)頭代替了兩系統(tǒng)的三角機(jī)頭， “Multi”的106cm長(zhǎng)度的針床被130cm長(zhǎng)的針床取代。Aries 3尤其適用于小批量的優(yōu)質(zhì)高檔的時(shí)尚針織物的編織。</p><p>　　斯坦格公司的Aries 6在今年初開(kāi)始全面投入生

56、產(chǎn)，這種機(jī)器在緊湊的多功能方面是Aries 3的兩倍。這就是說(shuō)，在某種形式上，一臺(tái)Aries 6機(jī)器相當(dāng)于兩臺(tái)Aries 3的機(jī)器連接在一起，兩個(gè)三角機(jī)頭公用一個(gè)驅(qū)動(dòng)，共享導(dǎo)紗器和電子控制系統(tǒng)。</p><p>　　這種機(jī)器的機(jī)架是一種自我支持焊接結(jié)構(gòu)，在斯坦格傳統(tǒng)的生產(chǎn)實(shí)踐和檢測(cè)中生產(chǎn)，非常穩(wěn)固、牢靠。該機(jī)器總長(zhǎng)度為535cm，有兩個(gè)分離的編織機(jī)頭。其中每一個(gè)機(jī)頭都有130cm的編織寬度，且有兩個(gè)三系統(tǒng)的三角機(jī)

57、頭。和Multi、 Aries 3一樣，Aries 6沒(méi)有傳統(tǒng)的機(jī)頭連接橋臂，因此前后三角系統(tǒng)是分離的，但同步驅(qū)動(dòng)，同時(shí)，紗線(xiàn)在編織點(diǎn)的直線(xiàn)方向上直接通過(guò)導(dǎo)紗器喂入。</p><p>　　三系統(tǒng)三角機(jī)頭的每個(gè)編織系統(tǒng)是完全相同的設(shè)計(jì)，每個(gè)編織系統(tǒng)都有兩個(gè)選擇點(diǎn)，能夠進(jìn)行三位選針（成圈，集圈，浮線(xiàn)）編織，當(dāng)移圈機(jī)構(gòu)工作時(shí)，線(xiàn)圈就會(huì)被從前針床的織針上轉(zhuǎn)移到后針床的織針上，或者相反，他們可以同時(shí)進(jìn)行或不同時(shí)進(jìn)行。無(wú)需重

58、新設(shè)置三角運(yùn)動(dòng)軌跡，就可以在任何時(shí)候利用分針技術(shù)避免移圈時(shí)產(chǎn)生的孔洞。</p><p>　　Aries 6的功能</p><p>　　Aries 6機(jī)器的每一個(gè)編織機(jī)頭有一個(gè)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的12或24個(gè)可驅(qū)動(dòng)的導(dǎo)紗器的裝置。因此，無(wú)論是在單面還是雙面織物中，都能編織要求較高的款式，優(yōu)質(zhì)的嵌花設(shè)計(jì)，還可以與結(jié)構(gòu)花型組合。</p><p>　　Aries 6（和Aries 3一樣

59、）擁有剪紗和夾紗組合裝置，作為標(biāo)準(zhǔn)組件安裝在針床的左右兩邊。斯坦格著名的摩擦式牽拉裝置，被安裝在靠近編織區(qū)域的地方（約20mm），能夠確保對(duì)織物直接的，無(wú)扭轉(zhuǎn)的牽拉。</p><p>　　不管是斯坦格最早為“Multi”機(jī)器開(kāi)發(fā)的新技術(shù)，還是在Aries 3和Aries 6上的進(jìn)一步改進(jìn)和發(fā)展，都引起了許多有名望的行業(yè)專(zhuān)家的關(guān)注。毫無(wú)疑問(wèn)，它表明了這些發(fā)展的途徑在方向上是正確的。這使它可以通過(guò)簡(jiǎn)單的解決方案，取得

60、更高的可靠性，更高的生產(chǎn)能力和獨(dú)特的花型范圍。 </p><p>　　然而，就現(xiàn)代的全電腦化的機(jī)器而言，簡(jiǎn)單性，高效率性和機(jī)器的可靠性已經(jīng)不是唯一的要求。機(jī)器的控制軟件和花型的準(zhǔn)備系統(tǒng)也是同樣重要的。</p><p>　　編織軟件:自從1993年市場(chǎng)上引入Vesta系列機(jī)器，斯坦格開(kāi)發(fā)了一個(gè)運(yùn)行在兼容PC 電腦上的先進(jìn)的編程系統(tǒng)。該系統(tǒng)被稱(chēng)做“model”，在windows環(huán)境中運(yùn)行以適應(yīng)

61、最新的發(fā)展。“model”軟件的是用符號(hào)編程，這些符號(hào)可以代表一個(gè)簡(jiǎn)單的線(xiàn)圈或是復(fù)雜的編織過(guò)程（比如：一個(gè)前針床針上的線(xiàn)圈轉(zhuǎn)移到后針床后，再轉(zhuǎn)回到前針床相鄰的針上）。</p><p>　　因此，可以使用這種符號(hào)為各種線(xiàn)圈編制模型并將其存儲(chǔ)在各類(lèi)線(xiàn)圈和花型的庫(kù)中?！癿odel”軟件中已經(jīng)包含了一個(gè)由大量花型單元組成的“模型庫(kù)”，而且還會(huì)不斷增加。通過(guò)不同符號(hào)的組合，可以形成部分花形循環(huán)單元以及整個(gè)花型的循環(huán)單元。目

62、前流行的花形單元，都已經(jīng)包括在這個(gè)“模型庫(kù)”里了。還可依據(jù)不同用戶(hù)特殊的個(gè)性化要求對(duì)其進(jìn)行擴(kuò)展和增加，它可以在屏幕上用圖形顯示出一個(gè)全成形針織服裝衣片。這也適用于產(chǎn)生形狀。</p><p>　　將在屏幕上所描繪的東西被在針織機(jī)精確地生產(chǎn)，在生產(chǎn)過(guò)程中實(shí)現(xiàn)對(duì)各種錯(cuò)誤的預(yù)警，這些是由電腦所控制的。它能夠顯示在將要進(jìn)行的編織過(guò)程中可能發(fā)生的錯(cuò)誤。系統(tǒng)也能夠一橫列一橫列地模擬線(xiàn)圈的編織，使線(xiàn)圈的成圈和紗線(xiàn)的路徑可視化。并

63、預(yù)先對(duì)在針織機(jī)上編織可能發(fā)生的編織問(wèn)題進(jìn)行分析和了解。</p><p>　　通過(guò)電腦控制，在屏幕上模擬編織的部分出來(lái)以后，隨著設(shè)計(jì)程序的自動(dòng)化生成，這種編織進(jìn)程所需要的機(jī)器型號(hào)和機(jī)號(hào)被確定了。針對(duì)斯坦格各種電腦橫機(jī)，“model”軟件系統(tǒng)可以對(duì)編織部分和形狀進(jìn)行分析，甚至可以追溯到機(jī)器的電控部分。對(duì)于Vesta機(jī)器系列，當(dāng)然還有Aries系列，設(shè)計(jì)程序能夠被保存在卡帶上直接讀入機(jī)器，或是在線(xiàn)傳送到適當(dāng)?shù)尼樋棛C(jī)上。

64、</p><p>　　設(shè)計(jì)師的伙伴關(guān)系:多年來(lái)，斯坦格一直在與Prima平面設(shè)計(jì)公司緊密合作。他們共同設(shè)計(jì)軟件，今天，其中的力克軟件正被全世界所接受。Prima平面可視軟件，基于視覺(jué)實(shí)現(xiàn)的花型單元實(shí)現(xiàn)系統(tǒng)，Prima Vision 的“ knit Expert”，可以產(chǎn)生能夠展現(xiàn)線(xiàn)圈結(jié)構(gòu)的提花花型和嵌花花型。這種文件既可以保存在卡帶上，又可以打印出來(lái)，在線(xiàn)圈結(jié)構(gòu)上，甚至是不同機(jī)號(hào)上彎紗深度不同的外觀方面都能盡可能

65、實(shí)際地顯示出來(lái)。</p><p>　　它包括了以下一些功能：</p><p>　　1．按照實(shí)際機(jī)號(hào)以線(xiàn)圈形式或意匠格形式逐線(xiàn)圈畫(huà)圖，也可以將手畫(huà)圖和掃描設(shè)計(jì)很方便地轉(zhuǎn)換為線(xiàn)圈圖。</p><p>　　2．即時(shí)顯示一個(gè)設(shè)計(jì)圖案在另一機(jī)號(hào)或密度下的情況;密度大小的變化能夠準(zhǔn)確地表現(xiàn)在設(shè)計(jì)圖上。 </p><p>　　3．通過(guò)“ knit Expe

66、rt”系統(tǒng)的易于使用的色彩功能，包括以針織外觀的全色系系統(tǒng)，可以將其展示給客戶(hù)。專(zhuān)業(yè)色彩的準(zhǔn)確性適用，以及自動(dòng)紗線(xiàn)顏色的配比，可以快速進(jìn)行的成本估算。</p><p>　　4．基于真實(shí)針織物的組織結(jié)構(gòu)“模型庫(kù)”，可以選擇用來(lái)建立自己的針織圖形的“模型庫(kù)”。使用“ knit Expert”系統(tǒng)，可以即時(shí)的在屏幕上驗(yàn)證工藝的可行性。如果在屏幕上運(yùn)行良好，那么在斯坦格針織機(jī)上一樣運(yùn)行良好。</p><

67、;p>　　5．一個(gè)完全可視化的填充系統(tǒng)，可以很容易地進(jìn)行圖案的組織的檢索。 </p><p>　　6．自動(dòng)和即時(shí)打印所作的圖形。 </p><p>　　7．可以以線(xiàn)圈的形式生成針織圖案，通過(guò)PrimaVision-TCX系統(tǒng)可以產(chǎn)生影像效果的三維立體圖片，從而制作成無(wú)需編織的產(chǎn)品目錄。 </p><p>　　斯坦格和力克之間的緊密合作，使得可以同步開(kāi)發(fā)“mod