服裝設(shè)計(jì)外文翻譯—可持續(xù)消費(fèi)的具有前瞻性的服裝設(shè)計(jì)（節(jié)選）

1、<p>　　字?jǐn)?shù)：英文3104單詞，17881字符；中文5737漢字</p><p>　　出處：Kirsi Niinimäki.Proactive Fashion Design for Sustainable Consumption[J].Nordic Textile Journal,2012,1:60-69.</p><p><b>　　外文文獻(xiàn)：　<

2、/b></p><p>　　Proactive Fashion Design for Sustainable Consumption</p><p>　　Abstract This article presents a study that investigates product satisfaction in the context of clothing. The paper

3、 furthermore presents suggestions on how this knowledge can be used to create proactive fashion design for sustainable consumption. One of the main challenges in today’s consumer society is how to design products that en

4、courage consumers to engage in more environmentally responsible behaviour, sustainable consumption. This paper opens the discussion on how to change current unsusta</p><p>　　Keywords: proactive design, susta

5、inable design, sustainable consumption, emotional satisfaction, PSS.</p><p>　　Introduction</p><p>　　Products configure consumer needs and use patterns; hence, design can be said to be “practice-

6、oriented”, creating certain everyday practices and consumption behaviour (Shove et al. 2007, 134–136). Current industrial design and mass-manufacturing systems stimulate consumerism and the production of disposable produ

7、cts (Walker 2007, 51). Fast changing trends lead to consumers’ unsustainable consumption behaviour. To create a new, sustainable balance between design, manufacturing and consumption, al</p><p>　　Higher prod

8、uction volumes and simultaneous growing consumption have caused an increase in material consumption (Throne-Holst et al. 2007). Ever-changing fashion trends, affordable product prices and low-quality products cause consu

9、mers to engage in unsustainable consumption behaviour, such as impulse purchases, overconsumption, short use time and premature disposal of products. The increase in the purchase of short-lifespan products results in a n

10、otable increase in waste. Currently, approximatel</p><p>　　Emotions lie at the centre of human life, and they influence most of our behaviours, motivations and thought processes (Desmet 2009, 379). Emotions

11、also play a strong role in consumption. The interplay between wants, needs, values, attitudes and experiences is emotionally meaningful for a contemporary consumer. Clothing and fashion items belong to the category of se

12、lf-expressive products, and with such products, consumption-related emotions are important to the consumer. As Richins (2009) argued</p><p>　　From an environmental point of view, studying consumption pattern

13、s and the meanings of consumption is important when sustained positive emotions in person–product relationships are desired or solutions are sought to replace materialistic consumption with other positive emotional state

14、s. The design process should focus on sustainable consumer satisfaction with a product or with the person–product attachment process. Moreover, a new kind of product service system (PSS) should be developed that aim</

15、p><p>　　Sustainable Satisfaction with Clothing</p><p>　　If current unsustainable consumption patterns are to be transformed into more sustainable ones, the ways in which design can offer sustainabl

16、e satisfaction must be investigated. To gain a deeper understanding of the opportunities to deliver satisfaction by design and how the enjoyable use of garments can be extended, the satisfaction process must first be exp

17、lained.</p><p>　　According to Swan and Combs (1976), the performance of clothing can be separated into instrumental performance (physical properties) and expressive performance. Expressive performance is lin

18、ked to a consumer’s psychological response to the garment, such as the experience of beauty. Instrumental requirements (e.g. quality expectations) must be satisfied first. Nevertheless, only fulfilling instrumental requi

19、rements will not result in satisfaction. Therefore clothing must also meet consumers’ emot</p><p>　　Hence good intrinsic quality is optimal for ensuring consumer satisfaction and to guarantee the longevity o

20、f clothing. High quality means durable materials and high manufacturing quality. The ageing process of a pleasant, aesthetic garment requires not only maintaining high intrinsic quality but also the design of a more clas

21、sical style and use of durable materials. Some textile materials look old after a short use time. The material might experience pilling or may look old after a few washes. G</p><p>　　Consumers respect aesthe

22、tic attributes in the long-term use of clothing, and aesthetic attributes correspond to expressive performance in clothing satisfaction. Accordingly, expressive performance affects the psychological response to clothing.

23、 The aesthetic attributes that correlate to the longevity of clothing are good fit, personal cut, nice colours and comfortable materials,as well as a classic look (see Table 1). Garment tactility is important to the wear

24、er and a pleasant tactile experience</p><p>　　Table I: Attributes that enable longevity in clothing</p><p>　　Not only quality, functionality and aesthetics are important attributes; the values b

25、ehind the product are also important to consumer satisfaction. Clothing choices must connect strongly with the wearer’s self-image, identity and values. Wang and Wallendorf (2006) have argued that consumers with high mat

26、erialistic values seek novelty and evaluate their possessions more often than consumers with lower materialistic values. They also highlight that materialistic consumers have less appreciation fo</p><p>　　Fa

27、shion Design for Sustainable Satisfaction</p><p>　　How can a designer offer sustainable satisfaction to the consumer and how can s/he propose a prolonged use time of the product to the consumer? Firstly iden

28、tifying the attributes associated with satisfaction and including them in the design is the most important strategy. Secondly identifying the determinants that lead to dissatisfaction helps the designer to avoid these el

29、ements in design and concentrate on design for sustainable satisfaction. The previous section described the satisfaction ele</p><p>　　-good intrinsic quality;</p><p>　　-good functionality;</p

30、><p>　　-aesthetics;</p><p>　　-values in the product, in manufacturing or the company’s values.</p><p>　　The easiest way to offer product satisfaction is to increase the product’s intri

31、nsic quality and inform the consumer accordingly. However the clothing satisfaction process is complex and not easy for a designer to control. Table 2 presents the temporal dimensions in clothing satisfaction, combining

32、those elements and attributes that enable satisfaction to emerge or even create person-product attachments in the field of clothing. These are the elements that a designer should try to embed in desig</p><p>

33、;　　Table 2: Elements of proactive sustainable fashion design</p><p>　　The following section presents several design approaches to deeper person-product satisfaction in the field of clothing. With these desig

34、n strategies the designer can aim to achieve proactive and sustainable design.</p><p>　　Fashion Design with Meaningful Uniqueness</p><p>　　Products carry symbolic meaning, which consumers use to

35、 construct their own personality and identity. Consumers use products to express themselves and want association with the characteristics, uniqueness or values symbolised by a product (Norman 2005). If products are easil

36、y personalised, the opportunity exists to connect the product more deeply with consumers’ identity construction and to create deeper product satisfaction and an emotional attachment through the person–product relationshi

37、p (Ch</p><p>　　Design services are one opportunity to address consumer satisfaction by deeply connecting the design outcome with a consumer’s personal needs. By using digital technologies that enable individ

38、ual design or measurements, meaningful uniqueness can be designed. Furthermore, unique design and “made-to-measure” services offer improved product satisfaction by meeting a consumer’s individual needs and preferences be

39、tter than mass-manufactured garments. The company NOMO Jeans offers computer-assisted ma</p><p>　　An enterprise can also base its function only on consumer orders. The designer can create their own collectio

40、ns, produce a couple of sample collections and enable consumers to specify all orders and measurements on an individual basis. Garments can then be created based on each wearer’s measurements, thus enabling him/her to ex

41、perience greater satisfaction. This design and manufacturing strategy may also help producers avoid the problem of overproduction. Small enterprises could offer their coll</p><p>　　Designer Anna Ruohonen cre

42、ates long lasting and high quality fashion (Anna Ruohonen). She has created a timeless collection called Black Classic, where the designs are permanent but it is possible to order them in seasonal colours. Garments are m

43、anufactured only according to customer’s order and according to each customer’s individual measurements. This strategy helps to avoid overproduction. Moreover the good fit of the clothing helps ensure deeper garment sati

44、sfaction.</p><p>　　Co-creation</p><p>　　One possibility for creating deeper person–product attachment is through a consumer’s own efforts during the design or realisation process. A sense of per

45、sonal achievement is strongly connected to a positive sense of self (Norman 2005) and allows the product to begin to be more important to the wearer. The consumer’s own achievement through a “made by me” approach to desi

46、gn creates positive experiences through the sense of effort and the opportunity to realise her/his own creative skills. If the</p><p>　　One option for including the consumer in the design or manufacturing pr

47、ocess is to offer her/him an opportunity to make decisions during the process. Consumers have shown an interest in taking part in the design or manufacturing process by using the Internet (Niinimäki 2011). If the de

48、sign is based on a modular structure and the consumer is allowed to make her/his own choices – even from a limited selection – in creating a unique style, this process gives consumers new power and a more active ro</p

49、><p>　　Opening fashion field is one way to offer the consumer more active role. Lastwear is a company that offers ready-made garments, halfway clothing (kit-based) and patterns of their fashion designs (Lastwea

50、r clothing company). They also invest in quality and offer a guarantee on their garments, which is a good way to ensure product satisfaction.</p><p>　　Giving consumers more power is also possible by offering

51、 environmentally-related options. Consumers may be allowed to select a manufacturing location and different materials – and be provided with corresponding prices – enabling them to express their values through their choi

52、ces. For example, many consumers, especially those who consider themselves ethical consumers, would like to buy locally manufactured garments even if they are more expensive (Niinimäki 2011).</p><p>　　F

53、ulfilling Consumers’ Changing Needs Through PSS</p><p>　　The symbolic meanings of products are connected to psychological satisfaction through an emotional response. When the product no longer offers a posit

54、ive emotional response because, for example, it falls out of fashion or the wearer becomes otherwise tired of it, the consumer experiences psychological obsolescence and easily replaces the product with a new one. Accord

55、ingly emotional and psychological obsolescence results in premature disposal of a product that may still be functional.</p><p>　　Consumers’ needs and aesthetic preferences that change over time raise the que

56、stion of how to avoid the psychological obsolescence of garments. The challenge in extending product lifetimes is to achieve continuing satisfaction with the product. The PSS approach allows the creation of new experienc

57、es with a product or changes to a product to enable it to better suit a consumer’s changing needs.</p><p>　　Positive ways that a product’s lifetime can be extended include upgradability services, modificatio

58、n services and exchange stocks. These strategies can postpone garment disposal by keeping the consumer satisfied longer. Modification or redesign possibilities for quality garments allow for an extension of a product’s l

59、ife span. Many websites already advise consumers on how to modify their old garments themselves and encourage consumers to extend the use of their garments. Many small and locally f</p><p>　　A design based o

60、n a modular clothing structure also offers the possibility to create services to upgrade garments. This strategy offers the opportunity to update the appearance in a sustainable way (Fletcher & Grose 2012, 82). It is

61、 possible to play with the clothing elements to create unique combinations of colours or shapes to develop a new look. The consumer does not need to then buy a new garment; instead s/he can simply change some parts or el

62、ements in the garment to have the experience of </p><p>　　Garment exchange or renting services offer possibilities for consumers to make changes to their clothing in more sustainable ways. New and interestin

63、g examples of clothing membership clubs exist. By paying a monthly membership fee, a consumer can select a certain number of garments to use, giving him or her the opportunity to change the appearance in a more sustainab

64、le way. This type of business strategy has emerged e.g. in the field of children’s clothing. Consumers can rent children’s outfits </p><p>　　Conclusions</p><p>　　This study investigated product

65、satisfaction in the context of clothing and this knowledge was used to understand and define proactive fashion design for sustainable consumption. It opened views into the process of consumer satisfaction. A main issue t

66、hat arises when aiming to extend the life of garments is to increase their durability and intrinsic quality. Moreover, fulfilling consumers’ other expectations regarding the garment’s aesthetic and functional attributes

67、is important to ensure produ</p><p>　　By identifying the reasons for the short and long-term use of clothing, it is possible to find new ways to create sustainable designs that can result in a redirective pr

68、actice directed towards sustainable consumption. Proactive fashion design for sustainable consumption takes these reasons into account, thus enabling clothing longevity. Satisfying consumers’ expectations regarding quali

69、ty, functionality, aesthetics and value is a key to extending the use time of a product. Moreover, the emotiona</p><p>　　The PSS approach provides an opportunity to extend the enjoyable use of a product and

70、thus avoid psychological obsolescence and a garment’s premature disposal. Stimulating a sense of meaningful uniqueness and achievement through design services or “self-made” approaches is a promising route to enhancing c

71、onsumer satisfaction. If a consumer is satisfied, then strengthening the emotional bond between the product and consumer is possible. In turn, this meaningful attachment is the best way to postp</p><p>　　The

72、 most promising sustainable design strategy is the combination of product design with service elements: PSS strategies are therefore a future path to proactive and sustainable design.</p><p><b>　　中文譯文：

73、</b></p><p>　　可持續(xù)消費(fèi)的具有前瞻性的服裝設(shè)計(jì)</p><p>　　摘要 本文從服裝的角度對(duì)產(chǎn)品滿意度進(jìn)行了研究。針對(duì)如何利用這些知識(shí)創(chuàng)造面向可持續(xù)消費(fèi)的具有前瞻性的服裝設(shè)計(jì)，本文還提出了建議。當(dāng)今消費(fèi)社會(huì)面臨的主要挑戰(zhàn)之一是如何設(shè)計(jì)產(chǎn)品，鼓勵(lì)消費(fèi)者從事更環(huán)保的行為，可持續(xù)消費(fèi)。本文采用一種有智慧、有遠(yuǎn)見的設(shè)計(jì)方法，就如何改變當(dāng)前與服裝相關(guān)的不可持續(xù)的消費(fèi)行為

74、展開了討論。設(shè)計(jì)師可以創(chuàng)造面向未來(lái)的可持續(xù)設(shè)計(jì)，將消費(fèi)模式轉(zhuǎn)變?yōu)楦沙掷m(xù)的消費(fèi)模式。因此，可持續(xù)設(shè)計(jì)是具有針對(duì)性的實(shí)踐活動(dòng)，主旨是可持續(xù)消費(fèi)，其中，服裝設(shè)計(jì)可以成為實(shí)現(xiàn)這一主旨的具有前瞻性的方法。</p><p>　　關(guān)鍵詞：前瞻性設(shè)計(jì)，可持續(xù)設(shè)計(jì)，可持續(xù)消費(fèi)，情感滿意度，PSS。</p><p><b>　　引言</b></p><p>　　

75、產(chǎn)品需要符合消費(fèi)者需求和使用模式；因此，設(shè)計(jì)可以說(shuō)是“實(shí)踐導(dǎo)向”，創(chuàng)造某些日常實(shí)踐和消費(fèi)行為（肖夫等人，2007，134-136）。目前的工業(yè)設(shè)計(jì)和批量生產(chǎn)體系導(dǎo)致了消費(fèi)主義和一次性產(chǎn)品的生產(chǎn)（沃克，2007，51）?？焖僮兓内厔?shì)導(dǎo)致了消費(fèi)者不可持續(xù)的消費(fèi)行為。為了在設(shè)計(jì)、制造和消費(fèi)之間創(chuàng)造一個(gè)新的、可持續(xù)的平衡，誕生了可以推動(dòng)更可持續(xù)消費(fèi)行為的另一種創(chuàng)造產(chǎn)品的方法。因此，設(shè)計(jì)師應(yīng)該評(píng)估每個(gè)設(shè)計(jì)決策將如何影響消費(fèi)者的消費(fèi)模式。從這個(gè)角

76、度來(lái)說(shuō)，可持續(xù)設(shè)計(jì)是一種重新的、積極的實(shí)踐活動(dòng)，其主旨是實(shí)現(xiàn)可持續(xù)消費(fèi)（弗賴伊，2009，53）。</p><p>　　更高的產(chǎn)量和同時(shí)增長(zhǎng)的消費(fèi)量導(dǎo)致了物質(zhì)消費(fèi)量的增加（特羅恩-霍爾斯特等人，2007）。不斷變化的時(shí)尚趨勢(shì)、經(jīng)濟(jì)實(shí)惠的產(chǎn)品價(jià)格以及質(zhì)量低下的消費(fèi)產(chǎn)品，使得消費(fèi)者不得不從事不可持續(xù)的消費(fèi)行為，如沖動(dòng)購(gòu)買，過(guò)度消費(fèi)，使用時(shí)間短，過(guò)早處置產(chǎn)品，等等。隨著使用壽命短的產(chǎn)品的購(gòu)買量的增加，其廢品量也在顯著上

77、漲。目前，約有70％的棄置衣物和紡織品最終進(jìn)入垃圾填埋場(chǎng)，在許多西方國(guó)家，服裝和紡織品廢料被認(rèn)為是增長(zhǎng)最快的廢料流（弗萊徹，2008，98）。消費(fèi)者丟棄服裝，不僅因?yàn)檫@些服裝已經(jīng)穿舊了，還因?yàn)樗麄兛偸菍で笮缕娴臇|西。然而，產(chǎn)品的耐久性和長(zhǎng)期使用是可持續(xù)消費(fèi)的先決條件：即延長(zhǎng)產(chǎn)品的壽命是實(shí)現(xiàn)可持續(xù)消費(fèi)的必要條件（庫(kù)珀，2005）。不過(guò)，重要的是，消費(fèi)者將耐久性與高品質(zhì)聯(lián)系起來(lái)，而不考慮環(huán)境影響。</p><p>　

78、　情感是人類生活的中心，它們影響著我們的大部分行為、動(dòng)機(jī)和思維過(guò)程（德斯梅特，2009，379）。在消費(fèi)中情感也發(fā)揮著重要作用。對(duì)當(dāng)代消費(fèi)者來(lái)說(shuō)，欲望、需求、價(jià)值觀、態(tài)度和體驗(yàn)之間的相互作用是具有情感意義的。服裝和時(shí)尚用品屬于自我表達(dá)產(chǎn)品的范疇，而此類產(chǎn)品，與消費(fèi)相關(guān)的情感對(duì)消費(fèi)者來(lái)說(shuō)是重要的。正如瑞金斯（2009）認(rèn)為的那樣，這些消費(fèi)情感是當(dāng)代社會(huì)的重要因素，尤其是在購(gòu)買活動(dòng)之后。購(gòu)買情況對(duì)消費(fèi)者來(lái)說(shuō)是一種強(qiáng)烈的正面體驗(yàn)，但它具有短暫

79、性，與更深層次的滿足感或個(gè)人-產(chǎn)品依附的體驗(yàn)無(wú)關(guān)（同上）。通過(guò)新的購(gòu)買活動(dòng)，消費(fèi)者至少暫時(shí)可以再次體驗(yàn)到興奮、享受、愉悅和樂(lè)趣。</p><p>　　從環(huán)境的角度來(lái)看，當(dāng)人與產(chǎn)品之間需要持續(xù)的積極情感，或者尋求用其他積極情感狀態(tài)來(lái)取代物質(zhì)消費(fèi)的解決辦法時(shí)，研究消費(fèi)方式和消費(fèi)意義是十分重要的。設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程應(yīng)著眼于可持續(xù)的消費(fèi)者對(duì)產(chǎn)品的滿意度或與個(gè)人-產(chǎn)品依附的過(guò)程。此外，還應(yīng)該開發(fā)一種新的產(chǎn)品服務(wù)系統(tǒng)（PSS），以延長(zhǎng)

80、產(chǎn)品的使用時(shí)間。PSS策略還可以為消費(fèi)者提供新的情感體驗(yàn)，從而推遲產(chǎn)品的處置；因此，PSS思維可以避免購(gòu)買新的衣服，這是一個(gè)減少物質(zhì)消費(fèi)的機(jī)會(huì)。</p><p>　　對(duì)服裝的可持續(xù)滿意度</p><p>　　如果將當(dāng)前不可持續(xù)的消費(fèi)模式轉(zhuǎn)變?yōu)榭沙掷m(xù)的消費(fèi)模式，就必須調(diào)查哪種設(shè)計(jì)方式能夠產(chǎn)生可持續(xù)滿意度。為了更深入地了解設(shè)計(jì)怎樣產(chǎn)生滿意度，以及如何延長(zhǎng)服裝的使用樂(lè)趣，首先要解釋滿意的過(guò)程。&

81、lt;/p><p>　　根據(jù)斯旺和庫(kù)姆斯（1976）的觀點(diǎn)，服裝的性能可以分為工具性能（物理性質(zhì)）和表現(xiàn)性能。表現(xiàn)性能與消費(fèi)者對(duì)服裝的心理反應(yīng)有關(guān)，如美的體驗(yàn)。工具性要求（例如質(zhì)量預(yù)期）必須首先得到滿足。然而，只完成工具性要求并不能達(dá)到滿意度。因此，如果要完全達(dá)到滿意度，服裝也必須滿足消費(fèi)者的情感需求（斯旺和庫(kù)姆斯，1976）。</p><p>　　良好的內(nèi)在質(zhì)量是確保消費(fèi)者滿意度和服裝使用時(shí)

82、間的最佳選擇。高質(zhì)量意味著材料的耐用和制作質(zhì)量的高超。一件令人愉悅的、漂亮的衣服在長(zhǎng)時(shí)間使用的過(guò)程中，不僅需要保持較高的內(nèi)在質(zhì)量，而且還要設(shè)計(jì)的款式更經(jīng)典、使用的材料更耐用。一些紡織材料經(jīng)過(guò)短期使用之后會(huì)顯得很陳舊。這些材料可能會(huì)出現(xiàn)起球現(xiàn)象，或者在幾次洗滌后看起來(lái)很舊。需要頻繁洗滌的服裝可能看起來(lái)老得很快，因此，識(shí)別以更美觀的方式變舊的材料很重要。研究顯示（Niinimäki，2010），就消費(fèi)者的體驗(yàn)而言，羊毛和真皮的老化

83、過(guò)程比較美觀。消費(fèi)者報(bào)告說(shuō)，使用高質(zhì)量的羊毛，老化過(guò)程并不明顯，而在皮革中，其老化過(guò)程隨時(shí)間的變化顯得相當(dāng)明顯（同上）。</p><p>　　消費(fèi)者在服裝的長(zhǎng)期使用中遵循美學(xué)屬性，而美學(xué)屬性對(duì)應(yīng)于服裝滿意度的表現(xiàn)性能。因此，表現(xiàn)性能影響消費(fèi)者對(duì)服裝的心理反應(yīng)。與服裝的使用時(shí)間相關(guān)的美學(xué)屬性是合身的、個(gè)人裁剪、漂亮的顏色和舒適的材料，以及經(jīng)典的外觀（見表1）。對(duì)穿戴者來(lái)說(shuō)，服裝的觸感很重要，在使用的過(guò)程中，愉悅的觸

84、覺體驗(yàn)是服裝長(zhǎng)期使用的一個(gè)屬性。</p><p>　　表1：使用時(shí)間長(zhǎng)的服裝的屬性</p><p>　　不僅質(zhì)量、功能和美觀是重要的屬性；產(chǎn)品背后的價(jià)值也是消費(fèi)者滿意度的重要因素。服裝的選擇必須與穿戴者的自我形象、身份和價(jià)值觀緊密結(jié)合。王和瓦倫多夫（2006）認(rèn)為，物質(zhì)主義價(jià)值較高的消費(fèi)者往往比物質(zhì)主義價(jià)值較低的消費(fèi)者，更喜歡追求新奇和評(píng)價(jià)自己的財(cái)產(chǎn)。他們還強(qiáng)調(diào)，在長(zhǎng)期使用的情況下，物質(zhì)主

85、義的消費(fèi)者對(duì)更深層次的個(gè)人與產(chǎn)品之間的關(guān)系不太感興趣。消費(fèi)者的物質(zhì)價(jià)值觀也可能與服裝和財(cái)產(chǎn)中與社會(huì)地位有關(guān)的因素聯(lián)系在一起。物質(zhì)主義價(jià)值較低的消費(fèi)者可能對(duì)因長(zhǎng)期使用而產(chǎn)生的產(chǎn)品的個(gè)人意義更感興趣（王和瓦倫多夫，2006）。具有高度環(huán)保和道德利益的消費(fèi)者非常重視能在產(chǎn)品背后找到環(huán)境價(jià)值。這些消費(fèi)者關(guān)注信譽(yù)質(zhì)量屬性——本地和倫理生產(chǎn)，生態(tài)材料和長(zhǎng)期使用的服裝——他們希望在購(gòu)買的產(chǎn)品中看到這些屬性和環(huán)境價(jià)值。價(jià)值層面是最重要的，消費(fèi)者的價(jià)值期

86、望應(yīng)得到滿足，以創(chuàng)造深層次的產(chǎn)品滿意度（Niinimäki，2011）。</p><p>　　符合可持續(xù)滿意度的服裝設(shè)計(jì)</p><p>　　設(shè)計(jì)師怎樣才能為消費(fèi)者提供可持續(xù)的滿意度？他/她怎樣向消費(fèi)者提出延長(zhǎng)產(chǎn)品使用時(shí)間的建議呢？首先，應(yīng)該確定與滿意度相關(guān)的屬性，并將其包含在設(shè)計(jì)中才是最重要的策略。其次，確定導(dǎo)致不滿意的決定元素，這有助于設(shè)計(jì)師在設(shè)計(jì)中避免這些元素，并將注意力集

87、中在可以實(shí)現(xiàn)可持續(xù)滿意度的設(shè)計(jì)上。前一節(jié)描述了服裝的滿意元素：</p><p><b>　　-良好的內(nèi)在質(zhì)量；</b></p><p><b>　　-良好的功能；</b></p><p><b>　　-美學(xué)；</b></p><p>　　-產(chǎn)品、制作或公司價(jià)值觀背后的價(jià)值。&l

88、t;/p><p>　　實(shí)現(xiàn)產(chǎn)品滿意度的最簡(jiǎn)單方法是提高產(chǎn)品的內(nèi)在質(zhì)量，并相應(yīng)地通知消費(fèi)者。然而，服裝滿意度過(guò)程是復(fù)雜的，不容易被設(shè)計(jì)師所掌握。表2結(jié)合了這些元素和屬性，列出了服裝滿意度的時(shí)間維度，能夠?qū)崿F(xiàn)滿意度，甚至在服裝領(lǐng)域創(chuàng)造出個(gè)人產(chǎn)品依附。如果設(shè)計(jì)師想要主題積極的服裝、深層次的產(chǎn)品滿意度和延長(zhǎng)產(chǎn)品的使用時(shí)間，那她/他應(yīng)該嘗試在設(shè)計(jì)中嵌入這些元素。</p><p>　　表2：具有前瞻性的可

89、持續(xù)服裝設(shè)計(jì)的元素</p><p>　　以下內(nèi)容介紹了在服裝領(lǐng)域加深個(gè)人與產(chǎn)品之間滿意度的幾種設(shè)計(jì)方法。通過(guò)這些設(shè)計(jì)策略，設(shè)計(jì)師可以實(shí)現(xiàn)具有前瞻性的、可持續(xù)的設(shè)計(jì)。</p><p>　　具有獨(dú)特意義的服裝設(shè)計(jì)</p><p>　　產(chǎn)品具有象征意義，消費(fèi)者用它來(lái)構(gòu)建自己的個(gè)性和身份。消費(fèi)者使用產(chǎn)品來(lái)表達(dá)自己，并希望與產(chǎn)品所代表的特征、獨(dú)特性或價(jià)值聯(lián)系在一起（諾曼，20

90、05）。如果產(chǎn)品很容易個(gè)性化，就有機(jī)會(huì)更深入地將產(chǎn)品與消費(fèi)者的身份建構(gòu)聯(lián)系起來(lái)，并通過(guò)個(gè)人與產(chǎn)品的關(guān)系來(lái)創(chuàng)造更深層的產(chǎn)品滿意度和情感依戀（查普曼，2009）。這種機(jī)遇使產(chǎn)品對(duì)穿戴者更有意義，從而延長(zhǎng)了產(chǎn)品的使用壽命。</p><p>　　通過(guò)設(shè)計(jì)服務(wù)，可以將設(shè)計(jì)結(jié)果與消費(fèi)者的個(gè)人需求緊密聯(lián)系起來(lái)，以達(dá)到消費(fèi)者滿意度。通過(guò)使用能夠?qū)崿F(xiàn)個(gè)人設(shè)計(jì)或測(cè)量的數(shù)字技術(shù)，可以設(shè)計(jì)有意義的獨(dú)特性。此外，相較于批量生產(chǎn)的服裝，獨(dú)特

91、設(shè)計(jì)和“量身定做”的服裝更能夠滿足消費(fèi)者的個(gè)人需求和偏好，并提高服裝的滿意度。NOMO牛仔褲公司通過(guò)使用3D掃描儀提供電腦輔助定制牛仔褲（Nomo牛仔褲）。牛仔褲是根據(jù)客戶的尺寸單獨(dú)制作的?？蛻暨€可以選擇他/她的牛仔褲的剪裁、顏色、效果和細(xì)節(jié)。</p><p>　　企業(yè)也可以只根據(jù)消費(fèi)者訂單來(lái)完成其功能。設(shè)計(jì)師可以創(chuàng)建自己的服裝系列，制作屬于自己的幾個(gè)樣本系列，并讓消費(fèi)者能夠在單個(gè)基礎(chǔ)上指定所有訂單和度量。然后，

92、根據(jù)穿戴者的尺寸來(lái)制作服裝，從而使他/她體驗(yàn)到更多的滿足感。這種設(shè)計(jì)和制作策略也可以幫助生產(chǎn)者避免生產(chǎn)過(guò)剩的問(wèn)題。小企業(yè)可以在小型商店中提供樣本系列，并直接從消費(fèi)者那里獲得訂單，從而避免額外的生產(chǎn)。</p><p>　　設(shè)計(jì)師安娜·羅霍寧創(chuàng)造了永恒經(jīng)典和質(zhì)量上乘的服裝（安娜·羅霍寧）。她創(chuàng)造了一個(gè)名為黑色經(jīng)典的永恒系列，其設(shè)計(jì)是永久性的，但是可以根據(jù)季節(jié)性顏色進(jìn)行訂購(gòu)。服裝只根據(jù)客戶的訂單和每

93、個(gè)客戶的個(gè)人尺寸來(lái)制作。這種策略有助于避免生產(chǎn)過(guò)剩。而且，服裝的合身有助于確保更深層的服裝滿意度。</p><p><b>　　共同創(chuàng)造</b></p><p>　　通過(guò)消費(fèi)者自己在設(shè)計(jì)或制作過(guò)程中付出的努力，能夠創(chuàng)造出更深層次的個(gè)人與產(chǎn)品之間的依附。個(gè)人成就感與積極的自我意識(shí)密切相關(guān)（諾曼，2005），并讓產(chǎn)品對(duì)穿戴者來(lái)說(shuō)具有重要意義。消費(fèi)者通過(guò)“我自己創(chuàng)造”的設(shè)計(jì)

94、方法獲得了成就感，并通過(guò)自己付出努力和展示自己創(chuàng)造性才能，創(chuàng)造了積極的體驗(yàn)。如果客戶自己創(chuàng)造了自己的產(chǎn)品，她/他將對(duì)產(chǎn)品有了更深入的了解，因此也有能力修復(fù)產(chǎn)品（帕帕內(nèi)克，1995）?；诠ぞ呦涞脑O(shè)計(jì)和半成品使消費(fèi)者在創(chuàng)造過(guò)程中發(fā)揮更積極的作用。</p><p>　　將消費(fèi)者納入設(shè)計(jì)或制造過(guò)程，可以給她/他一個(gè)在此過(guò)程中作出決定的機(jī)會(huì)。消費(fèi)者表示有興趣使用互聯(lián)網(wǎng)參與到設(shè)計(jì)或制作過(guò)程（Niinimäki，2

95、011）。如果設(shè)計(jì)是基于模塊化結(jié)構(gòu)的，消費(fèi)者可以做出自己的選擇——即使是有限的選擇——來(lái)創(chuàng)造獨(dú)特的風(fēng)格，這個(gè)過(guò)程給消費(fèi)者帶來(lái)了新的活力和更積極的作用。</p><p>　　為了讓消費(fèi)者發(fā)揮更積極作用，開放服裝領(lǐng)域不失為一個(gè)良好的策略。 Lastwear是一家提供現(xiàn)成服裝、半成品服裝（基于工具箱）和時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)模式的公司（Lastwear服裝公司）。他們還對(duì)服裝質(zhì)量進(jìn)行投資, 并為他們的服裝提供保證, 這是確保產(chǎn)品滿意

96、度的一個(gè)好方法。</p><p>　　通過(guò)提供與環(huán)境相關(guān)的選項(xiàng)，也可以給消費(fèi)者更多的權(quán)力。消費(fèi)者可以選擇生產(chǎn)地點(diǎn)和不同的材料，并提供相應(yīng)的價(jià)格，使他們能夠通過(guò)自己的選擇來(lái)表達(dá)自己的價(jià)值觀。例如，許多消費(fèi)者，特別是那些認(rèn)為自己是合乎道德的消費(fèi)者，即使再昂貴，他們也想購(gòu)買當(dāng)?shù)刂谱鞯姆b（Niinimäki，2011）。</p><p>　　通過(guò)PSS滿足消費(fèi)者不斷變化的需求</

97、p><p>　　通過(guò)情感反應(yīng)，產(chǎn)品的象征意義與心理滿足聯(lián)系在一起。當(dāng)產(chǎn)品不再提供積極的情感反應(yīng)時(shí)，例如，它不再流行，或者穿戴者厭倦了它，消費(fèi)者則會(huì)經(jīng)歷心理老化，很容易用新產(chǎn)品取代它。因此，情感和心理老化會(huì)導(dǎo)致仍然具有功能的產(chǎn)品被過(guò)早處置。</p><p>　　隨著時(shí)間的推移，消費(fèi)者的需求和美學(xué)偏好產(chǎn)生變化，因而引發(fā)了如何避免對(duì)服裝的心理老化問(wèn)題。延長(zhǎng)產(chǎn)品壽命面臨的挑戰(zhàn)是實(shí)現(xiàn)對(duì)產(chǎn)品的持續(xù)滿意。P

98、SS方法在產(chǎn)品中創(chuàng)建新的體驗(yàn)或?qū)Ξa(chǎn)品進(jìn)行更改，使其能夠更好地滿足消費(fèi)者不斷變化的需求。</p><p>　　延長(zhǎng)產(chǎn)品壽命的積極方法包括升級(jí)服務(wù)、修改服務(wù)和交換使用權(quán)。這些策略可以讓消費(fèi)者得到更長(zhǎng)時(shí)間的滿足感，從而推遲服裝被處置的時(shí)間。修改或重新設(shè)計(jì)優(yōu)質(zhì)服裝，可以延長(zhǎng)服裝的使用壽命。許多網(wǎng)站已經(jīng)向消費(fèi)者提供了如何修改舊衣服的建議，并鼓勵(lì)消費(fèi)者延長(zhǎng)服裝的使用時(shí)間。許多小的和地方性的維修和重新設(shè)計(jì)的工作室也已經(jīng)存在，在